The call of mankind’s cradle

A Turkana family in their homestead. PHOTO| RUPI MANGAT

What you need to know:

  • The springs of Eliye are there –one in a forest of doum palms that l step in to enjoy the natural shower with little fish swimming around me.
  • The derelict lodge that in the 1960s and 1970s was a high-end establishment is back on its feet as Eliye Springs Resort fashioned as a Turkana village complete with the doum-thatched huts that look like enormous beehives perched on the sand.
  • The road to Lodwar is a tapestry of sand drifts, dry river beds, plains dotted with towering termite mounds, thorn trees and doum palms – thick along the Turkwel River.

This is the world’s largest permanent desert lake and the world’s largest alkaline body, officially known as Lake Turkana. It sits on the northern reaches of Kenya’s once wild Northern Frontier District.  It’s now a World Heritage Site.


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