Coast tourist sites seek path out of Covid doldrums

Staff celebrate after reopening of the Pride Inn Paradise Beach Hotel in Shanzu, Mombasa, on July 30. 

Photo credit: Kevin Odit | Nation Media Group

What you need to know:

  • In Diani, the road from Rongai towards the beach — usually a raucous party area — shuttered shops stretch into the distance.
  • Taxi drivers sit on the roadside, with little hope of finding customers.
  • In Kwale, the Nation caught up with beach operators at Bidu Badu, whose businesses are almost dead.

With tourist sites remaining empty for months due to border closures occasioned by the pandemic, industry players are barely hanging on.  

The idyllic beaches in Kwale, Kilifi and Mombasa counties — which were once flooded with tourists — are eerily quiet, the new normal of a sector hard hit by Covid-19.

In Diani, the road from Rongai towards the beach — usually a raucous party area — shuttered shops stretch into the distance. Taxi drivers sit on the roadside, with little hope of finding customers.

Once, bikini-clad sun seekers browsed souvenir shops and drank at neon-lit bars. Now,  huge swathes of Diani’s sandy beaches are almost entirely free of people.

“This is how we used to earn our livelihood. We could sell our wares to tourists. Now, we just come here to spend the day. Things are tough. Not all beach boys come here to look for love from old foreigners; some of us are genuine beach operators who sell curio or act as tour guides,” said Julius Kazungu, a beach boy in Mombasa.

Other businesses

In Kwale, the Nation caught up with beach operators at Bidu Badu, whose businesses are almost dead. Mr A. Mwanagoda said they hardly make any money and are even contemplating moving into other economic sectors.

“I could make between Sh8,000 and Sh10,000 a day but now we are struggling to survive. We are only relying on local tourists, who must be persuaded to take a boat ride,” he said.

His colleague, Mr Hamisi Ali , stood next to a boat on the shores of the beach for dry docking as the season has not been fruitful.

“We decided to renovate the boat because business is low. We are asking the government to reopen the economy,” he said.

In Diani, famous beach restaurants like Bidu Badu and Forty Thieves closed their doors.

Many other players in the travel, tourism and hospitality industry are struggling to stay afloat.

The Kenya Association of Hotelkeepers and Caterers (KAHC) is, however, hopeful things will get better.

Kenyan attractions

“Businesses and investments are a cycle. A lot is happening in the industry; we will see new investments while some will sell their properties. In many destinations, it’s the same story,” said KAHC Coast Executive Dr Sam Ikwaye.

The world-famous beaches, wildlife, culture, weather and marine life are Kenya’s attractions, he added. 

“Investment will always follow such attractions. But we need to polish and repackage our products, then investments will come,” insisted the tourism expert.

Beach management

Dr Ikwaye urged Mombasa and Kwale county assemblies to fast-track enactment of beach management units to regulate hawkers.

“Beach boys are Kenyans who are trying to earn a living, but they should be regulated. We need to ensure the operators follow protocols.

“They are important players in the tourism ecosystem. The county governments must ensure they follow the health and safety protocols before reopening of the public places,” said Dr Ikwaye.

Post-election violence

Vivi Africa Expeditions sales consultant, Maria Njuguna, urged the Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife to deal with the beach boys menace.

A curio shop seller, Mrs Janet Kariuki, said there are few businesses along the beaches because of lack of customers. 

However, some hotels have started reopening by wooing local tourists with enticing packages.

Swahili Beach General Manager Jeff Mukolwe said the sector has survived devastating crises before in the country, including the 1997 Kaya Bombo clashes and the 2007/8 post-election violence.

But the impact of the pandemic is beyond comparison.

“The sector is still down but we appreciate the domestic market that is picking up. We have been receiving visitors from up country,” he said.

At Leopard Beach Hotel, the general manager, Kioko Musyoki, is looking forward to the reopening of the economy.

“We hope the industry will pick up as we move forward,” he said.

The Kenya Coast Tourism Association (KTCA) chairman Victor Shitakha said many hotels are in the red.