Roaming with the leopards of Oserengoni

“There it is!” exclaims Bernard Chege, a veteran safari guide with 15 years’ experience. It is night time at the 8,000-acre Oserengoni Wildlife Sanctuary that lies between Lake Naivasha and Hell’s Gate National Park. In a millisecond, the leopard melts away in the dense leleshwa woodland, just stopping for a split second to glance at us. 

Of the 30-plus leopards at Oserengoni, there are six within minutes of the upscale Chui Lodge. Chege points to the territory of an old male with a younger one in tow. “He is not as strong as the older one,” the guide says.

A few minutes away is an Acacia tree, the favourite spot for a female leopard and her three cubs. We wonder whether the big cat is watching us while sheltering her cubs.
Driving out, the leleshwa woodlands opens to vast grass plains, and we spot a silver-backed jackal getting ready for the night hunt. A large herd of buffaloes brood on the plains while above, three vultures soar high. Until a few years ago, the cliffs of Hell’s Gate boasted the largest roosting site of the now critically endangered Ruppell’s Vultures.

Spotted hyenas delight us with their lopping run thanks to the anatomy of the skeleton which features shorter hindW legs. “The head looks really big because of the fur but its skull is actually very small and dense,” says Chege and adds, “No wonder these animals were confused with bears in Nandi Hills. Imagine bears in Africa! The hyena clan is ruled by the matriarch and females only look after their own puppies, unlike the lions. There’s much more about these carnivores that makes for fascinating reading.
In the eventide, we chance upon a herd of finely-stripped zebras that number only 2,500 in the wild. Very rare.

Chege invites us to a sun downer on the plains as the setting sun bathes the Mau in soft hues of pink and purple. A flock of white-backed Pelicans settle on a lone acacia and then we’re enveloped in darkness, warmed by the leleshwa bonfire.
Enroute to the lodge, a Spotted Eagle-Owl lands on a leleshwa, cocking its head to listen for prey with its tufted ears. Nearby, an African hare with its extra-large ears runs away from a predator. By the time we reach the lodge, we’re high on excitement, and we settle down to dinner by the termite mound that doubles as a fireplace.

The morning brings the buffaloes, eland, giraffes, impalas, gazelles and the warthogs to the waterhole at the lodge. Driving out, Chege introduces us to the Eland with her cow friends. Found on the plains by a Maasai herder, Miss Eland spent a few days with the herd before she was brought to Oserengoni for safe-keeping. However, by that time, Miss Eland viewed herself as a cow and jumped straight over the fence to join her cow family. Elands, despite being one of the largest antelope species, have the ability to shoot up into the air and jump over ten-foot high fences.

A hearty bush breakfast is followed by a leisurely boat ride on Oloidien, Naivasha’s little sister. While Oloidien is salty, Naivasha is fresh. Separated by a narrow strip of land with a canal cut through like the Suez during colonial times, Oloidien’s moods are dictated by her bigger sister. Because of the recent heavy rains, where all the East African lakes rose phenomenally, Oloidien’s acting fresh. The boat captain flings a tilapia and there’s a flurry of copper wings as four large African fish eagles swoop down for the treat. The fastest among them grabs the fish with its talons and lands on a rocky insel to gobble the meal. With all that serenity, champagne at breakfast never tasted better.

About Oserengoni
It is located 120 kilometres west of Nairobi. Chui Lodge, in the sanctuary, is upmarket and small. The other property, Kiangazi House, is a charming, old world country house. Enroute to Oserengoni, book a tour of Kenya’s riveting raptors at Kilimendege https://www.kilimandege.com/, one of the raptor rescue centres under the Kenya Bird of Prey Trust - https://www.kenyabirdofpreytrust.org/. You’ll meet the vultures, eagle and owls and you may even get to hold some as you learn about raptor world.