Haandi Restaurant: The undefeated king of Indian cuisine

I should give fair warning: This review may come across as sycophantic, but a restaurant can’t survive the fickle food service industry without getting the food and service right. That’s what Haandi does. From my dinner experience, I would dare to say that they are the reigning champions of Indian cuisine in Nairobi, and with good reason. Sure, there are strong contenders, but Michael Jackson is still the king of pop despite Justin Bieber, Justin Timberlake, or Ed Sheeran.

I’ll start with the service. Simply put, it was superb. My family and I had started our dinner at a different Indian restaurant. We left after starters because the service wasn’t up to par. I’m pretty low maintenance, so as long as my order is taken well and served in good time, then I’m fine. My dinner companions, on the other hand, have different standards. And we had an overseas guest we wanted to impress. The service of the other restaurant wasn’t bad; it just did not impress. I’ve waited tables before, so I am sympathetic to the experience of the wait staff. However, the difference between good and excellent service is unmistakable.

We received a first-class experience at Haandi. Before dinner, we cleaned our hands with wet towels, and after dinner, we washed our fingers in hot lemon water. The bar was well-stocked. They even had the vodka brand I spent five years looking for. 

Our server, Felix, knew the menu well and gave excellent food recommendations. My mother wanted a pork chops starter, which they don’t serve at Haandi. Felix suggested a custom chicken wing dish – deep-fried wings tossed in a marsala sauce. It was a hit. So was his wine and hot and sour chicken soup recommendation.

I suppose it is easy to recommend meals confidently when everything tastes good. And I mean everything. We ordered the Malai mushrooms, marsala pappadums, marsala chicken wings, fish fingers, hot and sour soup, mutton korma, chicken curry, spinach lamb, and butter naan. All were delicious, but my tastebuds danced for the soups, chicken wings, and mushrooms. The chilies and vinegar in the hot and sour soup were perfectly balanced. I could taste the salt and fat of the crispy chicken skin underneath the sweet marsala sauce. The garlic and coriander (two powerful ingredients) in the Malai mushrooms did not immediately overwhelm the palette. The aftertaste, however, was a bit salty.

A few words about the ambiance; Haandi recently renovated the flagship restaurant at the Mall. The dining area looks luxurious in creams, golds, and browns. Yet, there’s still the familiar warm atmosphere I remember from decades ago. It’s not an empty brag when they boost that the Haandi’s experience is quality from ‘the moment you walk in, to the moment you reluctantly drag yourself away.’