Brunch by the sea

Exploring the culinary scene in Mombasa often leads me to seek the sage advice of Jamila Hassan, the luminary behind the renowned blog Life in Mombasa, whose insights never fail to impress. Despite her move to the capital, she remains deeply connected to her hometown, and this time, she directed me to a treasure she insisted served the most delectable waffles on the island.

Nestled within the sprawling 26-acre Mama Ngina waterfront gardens, MNKafe offers a tranquil oasis overlooking the bustling Likoni Channel, where ships gracefully navigate in and out of Kilindini Harbor. Following its reconstruction in 2019, this public recreational park, complete with an amphitheater, cultural centre, and a picturesque 2.1-kilometer-long promenade buzzes with life as families flock to indulge in a myriad of local delights from the street food vendors scattered throughout. From crispy kachiri (cassava crisps) to refreshing madafu (coconut water from young coconuts), from indulgent mkate wa mayayi (egg on toast) to savory fried pweza (octopus), there's something to tantalise every palate. For those seeking a more refined touch, MNKafe stands as a beacon of culinary excellence within this vibrant tapestry of flavours, drawing visitors from near and far to savor its delectable offerings amid the breathtaking waterfront views.

The café exudes an ambiance of modern elegance, with sleek black fans gently circulating cool air, setting the silver light fixtures above to a graceful dance. Delicate flowers adorn the ceiling, adding a touch of charm to the space. The interior is meticulously designed, with plants in chic black pots serving as natural dividers between the floor seating and the bustling food service counter. The grey wall benches are punctuated by inviting white seats, harmonising perfectly with the tiled floor in matching hues.

I also couldn't resist engaging in banter with the proprietor, Mohammed Nazir Khaki, whose surname amusingly mirrors the khaki fabric. This quirky coincidence served as a delightful conversation starter, particularly during his 17-year stint in the Big Apple. Interestingly, Mohammed confessed that it was the first time in 15 years someone had made this reference. MNKafe, pronounced as M...N...café, takes its initials from his name, adding a personal touch to the cafe's identity.

Our conversation proved to be both delightful and enlightening. Nazir's journey into the culinary world began humbly, baking three flavours of cupcakes from his home kitchen. However, his burgeoning enterprise soon outgrew the confines of his living space, prompting him to seek alternative arrangements. Despite facing initial challenges, including limited space and equipment, Nazir's determination propelled him forward. Preferring to focus on the present rather than distant future goals, Nazir's approach to business is grounded in practicality. However, the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic presented an unprecedented challenge for MNKafe, forcing it to close its doors for three months. Fortunately, Nazir's unwavering commitment to maintaining stringent hygiene standards and the gradual easing of restrictions in Mombasa helped to sustain the loyalty of his patrons. While the early days of MNKafe by the Sea were marked by overwhelming demands on its service, the team successfully navigated through the challenges to stabilise operations.

Nazir continues to draw inspiration from his mother, whose culinary prowess not only influences his cooking but also instills in him a sense of patience and steady growth. His meticulous approach to menu development reflects his commitment to excellence, with each item undergoing rigorous testing to ensure it meets his standards. With a focus on fusion cuisine that marries tradition with innovation, Nazir has earned MNKafe a reputation for standout dishes like crepes, cheesecake, and waffles. Behind the scenes, Nazir closely guards the secret homemade spice mixes that lend his dishes their distinctive flavour profile, while his mother plays an active role in production, ensuring consistency and quality in every bite. Whether it's burgers, wraps, or any other offering on the menu, Nazir's dedication to perfection shines through in every aspect of MNKafe's culinary experience.

For those planning a visit to Mombasa, don't miss the opportunity to experience MNKafe's Afternoon Tea, available Thursday through Sunday from 4pm to 6pm with a 48-hour advance reservation. While reservations are a must, the experience promises to be nothing short of extraordinary, offering a taste of MNKafe's signature hospitality and culinary expertise. Whether you're craving their specialty karak chai, grilled offerings, or loaded fries, MNKafe guarantees a memorable dining experience that embodies the rich tapestry of flavours found in coastal cuisine.

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