Reversing sun damage on your skin

Hi Carol,

I am light-skinned and I recently realised that my forehead is darker than the rest of my face. What can I do to even out my skin tone? I know I have to use sunscreen but I would also like to knowthe best sunscreen brand to use. Shar.

Hi Shar,

The most interesting thing about your question is that you clearly can tell where the problem is! If there is one thing we underestimate, it is sunscreen, convinced that “black don’t crack”.

Well, it does. Sunscreen, contrary to what you may think, is not reserved for hot, sunny days. So long as the sun has come out to play, which constitutes every single day of your life, sunscreen is necessary.

It is the UV rays — UVA and UVB — that we are protecting our skin against. That protection is not just for a pretty surface.

Unfortunately, sun damage is skin-deep. UV radiation alters the actual DNA of your skin cells, causing lines, wrinkles, discolouration, and even cancer.

“There’s a metre in your skin. Every minute you’re out in the sun, your body registers it,” says Women’s Health. Are you scared yet? You should be. As is always the case with sun damage it is easier to prevent it than it is to repair.

Women are far more likely to wear sunscreen. Most beauty products have sunscreen from moisturisers to foundation and women can also wear foundation to cheat an even skin tone while undergoing repair.

Sun damage does more than sit on your skin. It sinks deeper, as you have seen. As you still hesitate to wear it and try pegging the right brand, the sun keeps rising and you are running out of time.

And guess what Shar, research has consistently found that the greatest enemy of your skin is actually the sun.

As for age, anti-ageing treatment is recommended once you hit 25 years. Male or female, it should be part of your regimen.

Add to that the greatest challenge with black skin which is hyperpigmentation and you have it written all over your face.

Ideally speaking, the sun hits your forehead first, primarily because it is the largest, unobscured surface on your face, unhampered by any form of contours. I suggest you also examine your cheeks closely. Chances are they are not as light as you might think.

Your forehead is just stealing more of your attention. Now, when sun damage occurs your skin talks back to you by tanning. Once your skin has turned darker, that is a sign of sun damage which of course will not happen evenly. It leaves you with a kind of patchwork.

Sunscreen comes with a sun protection factor (SPF) and a number.

That number is not random. It takes a certain amount of time to stay in the sun before you begin to experience damage. That time varies for skin colours.

Most Africans can stay longest in the sun without overt effects. That’s why we imagine “black don’t crack”. We miss the skin darkening.

As a person with black skin it takes about 30 minutes to an hour before you start to burn. The SPF number means that at the 61st minute your skin is now susceptible for sun damage.

If you have sunscreen though, you extend the hour by the number of minutes be that (SPF) 10, 15, 30, 40 or 50. Once you wear sunscreen, you can stay in the sun longer without damaging the skin.

Let’s get down to the basics. What is your skin care regimen? What products do you use on your face every night? Do you wear moisturiser at all? If you use petroleum jelly or baby oil you are in trouble.

Are you on antibiotics? Some leave your skin a little more sensitive to the sun. Read the pamphlet that comes with your prescription. You may be surprised at what you find.

Do you use anything with retinol, hydrocortisone or may be even hydroquinone which has been banned for having negative effects on the skin such as bleaching that later turns hostile?

Have you been growing more sensitive to the heat, finding it a little too intense? That is an adverse reaction of something like medication.

Do you use cocoa butter? It makes your skin darker over time with sun exposure so you better be sure it has SPF in it.

That said, there are several ways to pick sunscreen. Take a walk around the typical supermarket shelf. You will notice lotions and moisturisers indicate the SPF.

More often than not the inbuilt ones are SPF10 to 15, rarely more. You’re going to have to change your lifestyle and skin care regimen to reverse sun damage.

That SPF10 is way better than going “commando”. Another is looking at the range of skin care products you are already using. Check that brand for any possible sunscreen that stands alone.

Next, look at what is on offer in the market.

Existing brands tell a story. What they say is they have been around for sometime, are fast-movers which means they have been tried and tested by the market. I suggest you go for nothing less than SPF30. And here is why.

To even out your skin tone you need to look for products that contain AHAs, exfoliate once a week to accelerate shedding of damaged skin, invest in a good moisturiser for both day and night, get a BB cream that suits your complexion to blur the browning lines.

Use Retin A once every three days. Invest in anti-oxidants in the form of supplements. Shop around in a health food store and look out for 1,000mg of vitamin C three times a day, incorporate B vitamins as well and top it off with Vitamin E.

Also try and avoid the 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. sun. This is when the sun is at its hottest. Wear a hat when you go out.

Finally, depending on how much this is bothering you, see a dermatologist and have a chat about facial peels and/or microdermabrasion. One last thing; please wear sunscreen for the love of God!