A treasure to speak about in the hectic heart of Kampala

If you want a hotel at a reason-able price and from where you can walk to the city centre, rather than suffer the traffic, which is as bad as Nairobi’s, you could give good old Speke a try. PHOTO| JOHN FOX

What you need to know:

  • Sudhir’s first hotel in Kampala still has a lot going for it. The terrace remains a popular meeting place.
  • It’s the equivalent of Nairobi’s Thorn Tree or Norfolk Terrace but, unlike those two, it hasn’t been screened off from passers-by on the street.
  • In fact, to one end of the hotel there’s the Rock Garden, where every night of the week there’s music and dancing.

The pineapples taste sweeter in Uganda than they do in Kenya. Always have done. I have no idea why. So eating them for breakfast on the terrace of Speke Hotel was one of the pleasures I had looked forward to when I booked a room at one of my old, favourite places.
It must have been six or seven years since I last stayed at Speke — but I was well remembered. “Hello, Mr John — welcome back!” the night porter said as he approached me with a broad smile and an open hand, before lifting my bags from the boot of the taxi that had ferried me from Entebbe airport.

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