Travel: Taking the sunset cruise in Watamu Island

I have never sailed down Watamu’s Mida Creek. At best, I’ve watched the sun setting over the creek from Crab Shack while gazing longingly at the dhows in the sea, jealous of the passengers’ vantage point. I returned to Watamu about a week ago, staying at the boutique and charming owner-run Lonno Lodge, whose food and cocktails made me not even want to venture out to town. Besides, I’ve done practically everything you can do in Watamu: checking out Bio-Ken snake farm, watersports, going on a walk at Arabuko Sokoke Forest, eating at restaurants in Watamu Beach Road, watersports, village tours, exploring surrounding towns in the North coast such as Malindi and Kilifi, and much more. This time I wanted to simply relax...if it didn’t involve lying back, having wine and having food brought to my seat, I didn’t want to do it.

Lunch

First there was the option of a lobster lunch cruise starting at 11am then stopping for a BBQ around Sudi Island. Grilled seafood served on board, strolling around the island, swimming in the creek then heading back to your hotel by 4pm. Organized by Turtle Bay, this would cost Sh4,800 per person. We however settled on a sunset cruise which cost only Sh1,000 less per person, and we were told it would take place from 4pm to 7pm.

Speed Boat

A speed boat took us to the huge dhow which has a capacity of 35 people (imagine getting married on a dhow!) and had two decks. On the lower deck, there were cushioned seating areas along the edge of the boat on either side, and on the front end there was a bar. The cost covered bottomless drinks, and we were ready to go to town. Someone pulled out a bluetooth speaker and started playing African music as we gently glided down Mida Creek. At the center of the boat was a table so you didn’t have to carry everything on your lap. On the other end of the boat, a chef was whipping up snacks such as samosas, mshikaki and corn fritters, and once each fresh batch was ready, a waiter passed around the plate.

A ladder led to an upper deck where a few people in our group decided to lounge. Mida Creek is known for migratory birds such as herons and wooly necked storks, and for avid birders, this would be a great spot to hang out in with a pair of binoculars. There was also a private washroom. I once went on an all-day deep sea fishing expedition on a much smaller boat with a pair of Swedish sportsmen, and the only way to pee was over the edge of the boat and into the water; no mean feat for a woman.

At some point the sun started to set. Everything went hush. A blazing ball of orange that splashed the sky in its hues.

A few of us, the stronger swimmers, decided to dive into the sea from the top deck, if only for the cool boomerangs. Back on board, more bitings were still being passed around and the bar was still open. There would certainly be no supper that night. A Burna Boy song started playing next. “Oluwaburna, aha, ye ye ye…”

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