The homegirls making giant strides in global fashion

Almost everyone knows the names of top designers. Mention Coco Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Donatella Versace, and recent entrants like Rihanna while making a purchase and the price will definitely be dear. These are renowned brands.

Every designer aspires to see their work gain acceptance and receive rapturous applause, both at home and abroad. However, for a long time, fashion designers in Kenya have struggled to attract global recognition.

Now, thanks to social media and other learning platforms, a new breed of designers is working its way up the ladder by addressing issues of diversity and colourism, and the world is slowly taking notice.

Thandiwe Muriu, 30 
Fashion photographer
Some 4,000 air miles from Nairobi, Thandiwe’s Camouflage series exhibition is showcasing in Paris. The show started on May 19 and will continue until July 31. But due to Covid- 19, the 30-year-old fashion photographer could not travel.

“Even though I have to attend the event virtually, I am so excited because this is my first solo exhibition. I am happy, fulfilled, and humbled. The Camoflouge series involves creating optical illusions. It’s like the model is disappearing into the photograph, yet she is standing out so it is impossible not to give the image a second glance. This camo series is a depiction of my struggle with my own image, and a mark of self-acceptance,” she says.

Raised in an artistic family, Thandiwe got into photography aged 14, under the tutelage of her father. Then there was her sister who collected various fashion magazines. 
“I remember going through the publications and really admiring the pictures. I love photography. When I am not shooting photos for billboards, I am thinking of ways to better present my fashion photography projects.”

The Camouflage series, whose concept is expressed in three ways – colours, models, and hairstyle – was birthed in 2015. “By that time, I had worked as a photographer for many years and was looking for ways to use the images to tell the story of my heritage. I love colour and aim to promote dark skin beauty.”

For someone who grew up not liking the texture and feel of her hair, Thadiwe hopes the elaborate hairstyles and makeshift eyewear will effectively showcase her culture and celebrate who she is as an African woman, in a modern and unique way.

Last year, during the Photo London Fair in October, Thandiwe was named Photographer of the Year, and an image from her series was used as a key visual for Unesco’s International Fund for Cultural Diversity celebrations. “Seeing my name in such platforms is really encouraging. It has taken me more than a decade to get here. It is all thanks to God, proper networking, the pursuit of perfection, and attention to detail.

Neema Nkatha,26, Ohana Swimwear
When Hollywood actress Lupita Nyong’o recently visited Kenya, she posted a photo across her social media platforms wearing a two-piece swimsuit from Ohana Swimwear. 

When we make sales, you hardly get to know who the piece is for and this was the case with Lupita. She gave me a shout-out on the Facebook post and that was humbling and exciting. 

Founded in 2017, Ohana Family Wear Ltd sells swimwear inspired by African cultures.
“I created the business out of need. I went out shopping for swimwear and I couldn’t get what I was looking for. Since I was traveling, I was keen on finding something with African prints. When I returned, I decided to venture into production of swimwear that tells the African story and culture through indigenous fabrics.”

Since establishing the business, Neema has sold more than 2,000 pieces through her website. “A few months ago, my line debuted at the London Fashion Week and I was also part of Creative DNA Programme, a British Council project designed to support fashion businesses in Kenya, and to develop skills, knowledge, and encourage networking in Kenya and the UK. My aspiration is to see Ohana become a global brand.”

Navalayo Osembo, 36, Enda
In 2015, Navalayo Osembo met her co-founder, Weldon Kennedy, and they bonded over a mutual interest in finding ways in which Kenya can benefit from its reputation in athletics. 

Six years later, the duo is running Enda, Kenya’s first homegrown shoe line.

“Most countries have a brand that they are famous for. This is exactly what we wanted for Kenya. My partner and I endeavour to create a product that gives nuance to the Kenyan story. For decades, our runners and fitness enthusiasts had been donning apparel from foreign designers and manufacturers.  That is the narrative we wanted to change,” she offers.

Enda’s flagship product, Iten, named after a village that is home to tens of marathoners, was launched in 2016. The shoe is ideal for shorter and faster courses. They also have Lapatet – which means “run” in Kalenjin. The shoe is ideal for long-distance runs.

“Our shoes are designed to maximise mid-foot strike, a style that is very popular in East Africa. Enda is manufactured by Kenyans and we try to source for materials locally. Where there is a gap, we get them from China.”

Amid financial challenges at the onset and competition from established brands like Nike, the market size is growing steadily and gaining traction locally and internationally.

Getting out there has come with its share of challenges and opportunities. It is great when people know about Enda and what we are trying to achieve, but it sometimes gets overwhelming when you think of all the work that needs to be done to meet and exceed expectations.

“When some hear of a shoe made in Kenya, they become curious, but many agree that Kenya-made running shoes are long overdue. One of our goals is to change the way people perceive local products. With the right investment, we are capable of producing quality products. Anyone that doubts this just needs to try our shoes and see for themselves.

Making the shoes never felt impossible because we had a clear vision of what needed to be done. I am a highly optimistic person and I always see possibilities and ask, “Why not?”

During this pandemic, we have witnessed an increase in sales. More people are becoming health-conscious and are engaging in activities such as running, which requires good shoes. When we started in 2016, we got 32 customers from 32 countries around the world. Back then, however, it was just my co-founder and I managing everything, from production to logistics to marketing. It was a lot, and customer service wasn’t ideal. After that experience, we decided to focus on the US and Kenya as our core markets. 

This year, we plan on launching our products in Europe.

Sharon Wendo, 29, Epica Jewellery
Earlier this year, Sharon woke up to her photo featuring on Vogue Italia. “You know those moments when you’re too excited to know how to react. That is how it felt. I kept looking at the image and whispering to myself, ‘This is me!’ This has been a great year. In 2020, I got to showcase my cultural apparel at the London Fashion Week and besides vogue, I have also been featured by Harper's Bazaar Italia.”

Sharon started beading in 2015 and registered her business, Epica Jewellery, in 2018.

“I learnt beading skills while on internship at the Kenya Youth Empowerment Project. At that time, I never thought this was going to be a viable career path, maybe because it was the first time I was doing beadwork. I even started looking for jobs and got an opportunity to work as a receptionist in a school. However, a few months into the job, I realised that my true passion lay in fashion so I quit to focus on Epica Jewellery. I started the business with capital worth Sh500 and I have sold so many pieces since.”

Sharon’s pieces are quite popular with celebrities such as Yemi Alade, Lulu Hassan, and Joy Kendi.