My visit to Goma after the Volcano

People generally visit Goma en route to tracking mountain gorillas, climbing Mt. Nyiragongo or trekking in the Rwenzori Mountains. Goma is a busy city in Eastern DRC, and it borders Gisenyi in Rwanda

If you were a Kenyan child who grew up in the 90s, there’s a good chance that you or your parents were big fans of Lingala music. We wanted to hear Lingala and Rhumba music from the source. 

We are told of an upscale nightclub called Nyiragongo at Serena Goma. In town, we are informed, there is Simba and Chez Ntemba clubs which are popular with locals, though they can get crowded on weekends.

Following the war in Eastern DRC in the late 1990s, a number of NGOs started operating in the region and most of their headquarters are in Goma. I also noticed a thriving business community, which will likely be the key clientele for Jambojet and Serena Hotel, Goma. We were however there for tourism. There’s a history of civil unrest and conflict here; for precaution, we got police escort especially when heading to the rural areas, otherwise, it is prudent to be cautious. 

My main reason for wanting to visit Goma for years now has been to hike up Mt. Nyiragongo and check out the crater lake at the top. This active stratovolcano however erupted in May and is presently locked off from tourists, most likely until 2022. The other key draw is to visit Virunga National park, the oldest in Congo and Africa, to view a variety of wildlife, particularly for trekking to see gorillas. 

We hired a local guide called Daniel Hanamali to take us on a driving tour around town for insight into what life here is actually like. “I’m going to take you around the city where everyone tells you not to go,” were his opening remarks. I was taken aback by how many boda boda, aka moto, there are in this city. They filled the streets by what seemed like thousands. Mt. Nyiragongo erupts roughly every 20 years or so, and when it did in 2002, they had to rebuild the city on top of the lava. From the last eruption in May, we drove to see the lava which is now being used to build roads and houses. We drove past Mont Goma, several landmark buildings and their CBD. One common fixture was the chukudu, a wooden scooter made from eucalyptus wood and which one would kneel on with one leg while using the other to steer forward and gain momentum. They were so nifty we saw someone moving houses with their sofas and mattresses tied to the back. 

Most road signs are in French. The locals primarily speak French, Lingala and other indigenous languages, and Swahili, with very little English.

We had lunch at Le Chalet, a beautiful restaurant in a green garden and set right on the lake, with incredible sunsets. Service here was a bit slow, granted we were a big group, but the food made up for it. We ordered different variations of fish and chips. I had tilapia, but you can also try sambaza, a silver fish that is endemic to Lake Kivu.

We also went to Malaika Lodge in Masisi Mountains. This was a six-hour drive away from Goma. The roads were very rough but the area is mountainous and lush green...if views ever deserved to be called breathtaking, it would be these. It’s very cold so pack warm clothing. Activities like horse riding through the mountains are offered. 

Tourists can take part in several activities on the lake, including fishing, kayaking, jet skiing, swimming and island hopping. Our hotel set up a sunset cruise aboard the Ilhusi boat to Kitembo island. We went on a walking tour of the village, followed by sundowners and music by the shores, on our last night in town. 

How to get there

Jambojet has now started direct flights to Goma twice a week. Our flight was two hours long, and the cost was $397 return. Goma is close to the DRC-Rwanda border, and is one hour behind Nairobi. You need a negative PCR Covid-19 test and a yellow fever certificate. Kenyans can get a visa on arrival for free for up to seven days. There’s also a $50 departure tax for international flights which you pay at a separate counter once at the airport, and a $5 ‘go pass’ for all flights.

Where to stay

Serena Goma is the only five-star hotel in Goma, having opened barely two months ago. We actually met a number of Kenyan staff while there, including the general manager. The main selling point for me is its location right by the shores of Lake Kivu, one of Africa’s largest lakes, meaning you get striking views from the balcony of your room and pretty much anywhere you are in the hotel. We had breakfast at Rumoka Restaurant which has an extensive buffet with local and international cuisine.

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