Make-up for the dark-skinned beauty

I’ve met countless women with rich, dark, gorgeous skin who steer clear of make-up, opting, instead, to invest in good mascara and shaping their eyebrows.

They can easily skate by on the bare minimum, too, because they almost always seem to have flawless skin. But they are also hungry for make-up tips. I should know. I gave up on foundation years ago. Had it not been for my line of work I would have spent my life thinking a foundation that works for my skin does not exist.

Start off with good skincare. You can’t use make-up to camouflage ill-kept skin. It has to first glow with love and tender care.

You may be dark but that does not mean your skin is a hardy hide! Also, don’t assume yours is naturally oily skin. I know of a few ebony beauties with dry skin. Regardless of what you find out your skin type is, a gentle cleanser is critical, a toner vital and a moisturiser life-giving.

You may have more melanin than Caucasians but you need sunscreen.

Find a night serum that reflects your skin’s needs.

Finally, do not, under any circumstances, use a skin lightening cream. I don’t care what you think or other people have said about your complexion, it is beautiful exactly the way it is.

Skin pigmentation

Dark-skinned women tend to have issues with skin pigmentation. So to even out your skin tone, use liquid foundation. Apply it on well-moisturised skin. Don’t hesitate to blend two shades to get what works.

Apply using your fingertips, a cosmetic sponge (found in any beauty/cosmetic outlet), or a brush. I use a big, fluffy brush, but you could also use one with a flat top for more precise application.

Most dark-skinned women tend to have a sheen with a healthy glow. Rather than attempting to suppress that, work with it. Buy BB cream.

The best one on the market so far, though in all fairness it is pretty much the only one, is Garnier. L’Oreal’s managing director Patricia Ithau says “it is more of a tinted moisturiser than a foundation.” It comes in a light brown shade and absorbs into your skin.

Finding concealer for dark-skinned sisters is quite a challenging undertaking, but not insurmountable. Get something from the same manufacturer whose foundation you are using. Some good options are Revlon and Clinique, which tend to have a brother and sister partnership with their products.

For the area under the eye, use an under-eye concealer, blending it in with a concealer brush, which is small, handy and flat with a slight angle. This is creamy and possibly, because you’ll be wearing eye make-up, lighter. Liquid concealers cover blemishes, but crème concealers are precise and best for spots.

Concealer should be a shade or two lighter than your foundation. Test one with a yellow undertone and one with an orange undertone.

I met a 60+ woman with clear, flawless, unlined skin who categorically told me to create a huge pile with my various powders and set them ablaze, but don’t be that hasty just yet. Try out translucent powder. Find one that is compatible with your skin tone, and using a big, fluffy, soft brush, spread it sparingly on your face, neck and décolletage area. Carry this in your purse and use it to touch up in the afternoon.

Blush is presumed to be the preserve of Caucasian or Asian skin. It really isn’t. Blush on the apples of your cheeks, that rounded curve that forms when you smile, works wonders for lifting your face. Blusher warms you up. That being said, it isn’t an everyday thing. Wear blush for photo shoots and events. A deep orange shade is great for dark skin and so is a deep wine colour.

There are beauty products that perform multiple duties such as eye shadow, lip stain and blush. I would avoid those. Leave it for the experimental beauty diva. Use a product for exactly what it is intended for.

You can also use a crème blush. It has the right degree of subtle.

Blush defines your cheeks and by extension, your cheekbones. Work with shades like cocoa, cinnamon, dark peach. For your eyes, wear dark charcoal, deep brown and grey, and don’t use metallic or bold shades on your entire lid.

Bright, happy colours

There is a trend that I have noticed with darker skinned women — we seem drawn to bright, happy colours. Save that for your clothes.

Your make-up needs to be more conservative. Go for purple, copper, gold and a blue or green that you can blend in and wear those at night.
For day, aim for bronze, a coffee shade or navy. Are you keen to experiment? Metallic eye shadow is for you. Think rich silver.

As for your lips, dark-skinned beauties can wear red lipstick.

Remember, when shopping for foundation, test the shade on your jawline, not hands, and yes, you can go a shade lighter. Check out cosmetics from Iman, MAC, Revlon, Clinique, Fashion Fair, Black Opal and SuzieBeauty.

The bottom line is, don’t be afraid to try out something new.