Marvels of a bygone era: The thrills and drills of Tana ferry in Garsen

When the first European set foot on the continent, the African traditional lifestyle changed for good.

The white man destroyed African societies, introduced slavery and subjected many to mental and physical humiliation in their own land.

To exploit natural resources, Europeans gathered around the breakfast table in Berlin, sliced up and shared out the continent among themselves, like so many pieces of cake.

While opinion remains divided on whether this contributed to civilisation, residents of a small sleepy town in Coast have fond memories of the Portuguese rule.

Located on the banks of the Tana River, Garsen is about 100 kilometres south of the county headquarters in Hola. It lies along the Malindi-Garissa Highway.

The elderly share nostalgic memories of a hand-pulled ferry that was once central to the region’s economy as the only means of transport across the crocodile-infested river.

Patton Ferry, popularly known as ‘Ferry ya Mkono’, was the only way between Garsen and Lamu Island, Mokowe and Mpeketoni.

For decades, the buoyant shuttle carried thousands of people, vehicles and goods back and forth. It was a busy town back then as business was good.

It was a marvellous piece of art that opened up Garsen to the rest of the country. Elders fondly recall the clicking sound of heavy sisal ropes as the ferry hit the waters.

Today, it’s no more.

What’s left is the dock, an empty path after the river changed its course and former ferry workers, who have lived to tell the story.

“The ferry could carry across more than 120 people and eight vehicles. There was a lot of movement here,” recalls John Keller, who worked at the dock.

When he was born in 1944, his father worked at the station as a groundsman. Unlike the British, the Portuguese were friendly and always ready to mingle with locals. They treated them well and improved the surroundings.

“The ferry was manually operated by a team of strong 12 men, who pulled it back and forth across the river using thick sisal ropes attached to each end. It wasn’t easy but the men got used to it,” says Keller.

“One man would be in charge of the ramp to see off passengers. This exercise would continue the whole day, allowing a second team to run the show at night.”

Across the river, there was a road that led one to Lamu Island, through the busy and enterprising villages of Dumi and Chara.

It was an adventure that created many jobs for the youth, with a few recalling good pay from the Portuguese. Decades after the guests left, operations stopped.

The government first proposed the building of a bridge, but politicians opposed the idea. The plan changed so fast that even before Garsen residents could blink an eye, the Chinese had been hired to build a bridge in Idsowe township that would link up the region with Lamu.

“That bridge was to be built here, but powerful politicians opposed the idea. Their hidden agenda was to move trade to their area,” says Keller.

The state of the town changed forever when the government, having noticed the river was inching closer into Garsen, diverted it and rendered the ferry useless.

“The original course of the river passed through here, but as you can see, they diverted it. This was once an economic hub in this region, but now look at how slow the town has become. It’s unfortunate,” offers Keller.

The ferry was later broken into pieces by ‘unknown people’ who reportedly sold them in scrap yards.

“They came here and carted away parts for sale in scrap yards. Whenever we asked about it, they dismissed us. They were just thieves,” recalls Joshua Menza, a resident.

What used to be the docking station is now a thorn forest and a few ageing structures. Residents say the Portuguese offices are still inside the forest, but we could not establish this.

Locals also speak of tunnels full of Portuguese documents and belongings, though the area is prone to dangerous snakes and wild animals.

As for the elders in Garsen, all the good times are past and gone.

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