A section of Shela in Lamu County where only the elite own property and apartments.
The Lamu Archipelago has over 35 unique islands that attract both locals and international visitors from around the globe.
Among such islands is Shela, where the elite, mostly rich individuals have moved to own property where many of them set up holiday homes for leisure.
The area is defined by the presence of posh houses and apartments which are owned by wealthy individuals from across the globe.
A section of the Shela island in Lamu County shows prestigious buildings, houses, and apartments in this photo taken on Tuesday, September 24, 2024.
On this island, the simplicity of life invites you to not only slow down but rest.
Everywhere you go, people call out to welcome you even as they go about their daily work, be it how building, donkey riding, playing beach soccer, warming or basking themselves in the sun and white sandy beaches or swimming in the Indian Ocean.
Abdalla Fadhil, an elder and native of Shela. He describes the friendly nature of the people of Shela as one of the reasons why the island is a must visit, especially for those who want to slow down and relax in a beautiful place.
Abdallah Fadhil, an elder and a native of Shela, described the friendly nature of the people of Shela as part of the reasons making the island have a welcoming sense of belonging to guests.
Mr Fadhil adds that the relaxed nature of the island also gives visitors a sense of anonymity which they would otherwise lack in other such destinations.
“Being a small village, Shela fosters a strong sense of community. Visitors often feel like they are part of a close-knit, welcoming society, which adds to the charm. This feeling of belonging is appealing, particularly to those looking to remain anonymous, something which lacks in larger tourist destinations,” said Mr Fadhil.
Unlike other places of Lamu County where you might get disturbed by motorists, donkeys, or human traffic, the noises and a stuffy environment, in Shela, almost everything is perfectly calm.
During hot weather in Shela, you can jump into the azure blue sea and when you fancy some exercise, you can walk straight to the old fort or even a bit further where you have 12 kilometres of empty beaches ahead of you.
The island is sparsely populated with most places reserved for the posh houses and apartments.
Shela lies in the south of Lamu and borders a picturesque 12-kilometre-long white sandy beach.
Apart from Lamu Old Town, Shela is the second town in the county considered a key tourist hub.
A section of Shela in Lamu County where only the elite own property.
In order to get to the island, one needs to travel by boat or dhow either from any of the numerous jetties, depending on where one is coming from.
“The vessels can be accessed easily on the beach or at the jetties at any time. From Lamu Old Town, it takes 15 to 30 minutes to travel to Shela where you can have a grasp of the unique experience of this particular island,” Abdalla Ziwa, a renowned tour guide within the Lamu archipelago says.
He further explains that at low tide, one can even walk from Lamu Old Town to Shela which takes between 45 minutes to one hour.
On arriving in Shela, one will easily discover a sense of high-class life for the residents of this particular island compared to the rest of the archipelago.
This is vividly portrayed by the luxurious houses, apartments and hotels erected on the island.
Almost all the best five-star hotels in the Lamu Archipelago are found in Shella.
This is where people of high stature including former President Uhuru Kenyatta, who frequented the island during his presidency, and top foreign nationals, including ambassadors, are some of the high-profile guests who usually spend their time while in Lamu.
The island attracts tourists and holiday homeowners from the United Kingdom, United States, Canada, Italy, France, Spain, and other foreign nations apart from affluent Kenyan citizens.
“We have rich Kenyans and foreigners owning these bungalows. Some of the foreigners first came to the country as tourists but opted to reside here permanently due to the serenity of this place. Shela is very safe, secured,” Ahmed Maulana, a resident, says.
The Nation established that many of those owning property in Shela do not live there but they only visit during specific events or seasons of the year in Lamu.
Fridah Njeri, the Lamu Tourism Association (LTA) Chair and a resident of Shela describes the island’s geography as stunning.
“The village is surrounded by a beautiful, pristine beach that stretches for 12 kilometres, offering a calm and peaceful environment. This natural beauty makes Shela a perfect getaway for those seeking relaxation and a connection with nature,” said Ms Njeri.
The Majlis Hotel in Shella. Shela is an island in the Lamu archipelago where only the elite own property.
She also cites a blend of tradition and modernity as part of the reasons making Shela a sought-after destination.
Ms Njeri adds that Shela has a strong Islamic culture which allows visitors to experience the rich historical heritage but without having to compromise their own values.
“This unique blend of tradition and liberty creates a welcoming atmosphere for a diverse range of visitors. The village has managed to maintain its traditional way of life while embracing modern luxuries, making it attractive to those who appreciate both authenticity and comfort,” said Ms Njeri.
Apart from the prestigious buildings and beach, Shela also offers a range of cultural and leisure activities that appeal to tourists.
They include traditional dhow sailing, exploring the sand-lined pathways, and enjoying the local Swahili cuisine influenced by historical trade with Oman, Zanzibar, and India.
A section of the Shela Friday mosque with at least 200 years of Islamic worship. The mosque is located right smack in the middle of Shela village.
The place also has unique exquisite architecture and old, historical religious structures, among them being the Shela Friday Mosque.
The Shela Friday Mosque retraces at least two centuries of Islamic worship in the Lamu Archipelago. It is one of the oldest in Kenya.
“Shela Friday mosque is part of Lamu’s sites and monuments. It has existed for 195 years, having been built in 1829. Shela reached her apogee during the 19th century, especially from 1829 to 1857, during which period there were as many as five mosques in the village. The Shela Friday Mosque is still the highlight of any visit to Shela today,” said the National Museums of Kenya Curator in charge of Lamu, Mohammed Ali Mwenje.
Despite the welcoming nature of the locals which has seen Shela rising from a village to the point of becoming a go-to place for the high-profiled Kenyans and foreigners, some natives of the island are worried about their future.
Mohamed Somo, a native of Lamu, owns land in Shela. He is one of the few locals who fear that the invasion of wealthy individuals into Shela will drive them out of business.
Mohamed Somo, a native, told Nation that many of them still living in parts of the island feel endangered and uncomfortable witnessing the wealthy, mostly foreigners getting attracted to stay and invest there.
According to Mr Somo, the guests have taken over all businesses, leaving the natives without any meaningful duty to perform.
“The few of us who own land can’t even do meaningful investments. We don’t have the cash to do so. The wealthy individuals have now taken over all businesses, right from the hotels and accommodations to transport.
“They have their own boats to ferry their clients, meaning that even the boat transport sector which the low-class people should have been let to perform is taken over by the high-profiled and the elites,” said Mr Somo.
In this island, land prices have soared as one spends not less than Sh10 million just to buy a one-acre piece.
Mohamed Kassim Share, the Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Landsworthy Real Estate Company, said every land, houses and apartments found in Shela are always considered prime.
"You can't get a plot within Shella for less than Sh3 million. Plots and apartments are always sold from between Sh5 million, Sh10 million and above depending on the size and location of that particular land or house," said Mr Kassim.
In areas like Ras Kitau Beach that borders Shela town, the cost for a one-acre piece of land is between Sh7 million to Sh9 million.
Hamisi Dau, a Lands and Property Agent in Lamu says the cost of land in Shela is rated according to the kind of people that surround you.
“If the land is within the Shela central business, then expect high prices. It is even worse if the land is within an area where those owning properties are high-profile individuals," said Mr Dau.
Nation also established that renting a hotel room or an entire residential home within Shela is an expensive affair compared to other areas of Lamu.
The cheapest hotel room will cost you between Sh3,500 to Sh11,700 to spend one night.
Renting an entire residential home will cost you between Sh90,000 to Sh160,000 per night while an entire villa for vocational purposes will cost you between Sh250,000 to Sh450,000 per night.
Mathew Kombe, a hotelier says the stays are always rated depending on the location, cleanliness, and the kind of garden within the hotel in question among other specifications.
Nation also established that the situation is even tougher for those with dreams of buying and owning houses in Shela.
A simple 4-bedroom apartment goes for between Sh35 million and Sh40 million at Ras Kitau Island near Shela but the same house within Shela Town is bought for between Sh50 million to Sh100 million.
In Lamu town, one can purchase the same house for between Sh25 million and Sh35 million.
Despite the high cost, most of those interviewed insisted that Shela is still a wonderfully quiet place.
